I remember some lines of a shayar:
Koi Kissa Rass Nahin Aata
Base Sivaye ek Sham-e-Awadh
Just as Banares is famous for its morning, Lucknow is famous for evenings. Many of famous building were made on bank of river Gomti in time of Nawabs. You can view its architectural beauty taking a trip in river Gomti in evening time. Nawabs also used to take a view of river at the evening time, so why Sham-e-Awadh is so romantic.
This is the same city which renowned Urdu poet/shayar, Meer Taqi Meer decided to pass his rest of life after Ahmad Shah Abdali sacked Delhi. Lucknow has produced many stars of Urdu poetry and it also features as a School of Urdu, like Delhi School & Barabanki School.
History of Lucknow dates back to time of Ramayan, great Indian epic which was supposed to happen some million years back. At that time, it was said that Ram gifted the territory of Lucknow to his beloved brother, Lakshman, as he helped Ram in conquering Lanka as well he completed his 14 years of exile along with Ram. At that time this territory was called Lakshmanpur, popularly known as Lakhanpur or Lachmanpur. You can see Lakshman Tila in Lucknow where Shahi Majsid is standing. The ancient metropolis of Ayodhya was situated on the banks of the Ghagra, a river as wide as the Ganges at Chunar and its extensive ruins can still be seen. There is no record of when and how Ayodhya came to be deserted or allowed to decay: the legend is that Rama ascended to heaven, carrying with him all the population of the place. So large had the city been that Lakshmanpur was described as its suburb!
Ayodhya was found its record again in papers of Akbar, Akbarnama written by Abu Fazal. There is no record of Ayodhya is up till this period of Akbar.
There is not much known about Awadh before the conquest of Kanauj by the Afghans at the. end of the twelfth century, Avadh submitted to the Sultan of Ghazni, and so became part of the empire of Delhi. Avadh then asserted its independence for a while under a Muslim ruler, but he was over-thrown by Babur, and Avadh became a subah or province of the Moghul empire.
The medieval history of Lucknow as well as Awadh(Oudh) province is known for its Nawabs. Total of 11 Nawabs ruled Awadh & after that it came in hands of British East India Company.
Sadat Khan, Muhammad Amin Saadat Khan, Burhan-ul-Mulk(1720-1739) -
Of all the Muslim states and dependencies of the Moghul Empire, Avadh had the newest royal family. They were descended from a Persian adventurer called Sadat Khan, originally from Khurasan in Persia. There were many Khurasanis in the service of the Moghuls, mostly soldiers, and if successful, they could hope for rich rewards. Sadat Khan proved to be amongst the most successful of this group.
Saadat Khan Burhan-ul-mulk, the founder of Awadh dynasty hailed from a noble Saiyid family of Nishapur in Khurasan. Earlier name Mir Muhammad Amin, he entered the mughal court as a small 'Amil', however managed to obtain a mansab under Farrukhsiyar and played an important role in the ascending of Muhammad Shah to the throne and overthrow of Saiyid Brothers. Thus earned the title of Saadat Khan Bahadur in 1720 and the Governorship of Awadh as a reward in 1722. In 1732, he was made governor of the province of Avadh. His original title was Nazim, which means Governor.
At that moment Lucknow was under the influence of Shaikhzadas. Saadat Khan settled the disturbed fortunes of his territory, with the might of the sword, and established his court at Faizabad. But soon he was made Nawab. In 1740, the Nawab was called Wazir or vizier, which means Chief Minister, and thereafter he was known as the Nawab Wazir. In practice, from Sadat Khan onwards, the titles had been hereditary, though in theory they were in the gift of the Moghul emperor, to whom allegiance was paid. A nazar, or token tribute, was sent each year to Delhi, and members of the imperial family were treated with great deference: two of them actually lived in Lucknow after 1819, and were treated with great courtesy.
Nawab Burhan-ul-mulk was summoned to Delhi in the wake of Nadir Shah's invasion, where he died a natural death in 1739 AD.
SafdarJung (1739-1754) -
Saadat Khan was succeeded by his son-in-law Muhammad Muqim, under the title of Abul Mansur Khan. Burhan-ul-mulk had left behind only five daughters but no male heir to the throne. Safdar lung's rule of 15 years, saw no peace as due to continuous struggle with the Bangash Pathan's of Farrukhabad. Safdarjung had to leave Delhi due to court conspiracies. He returned to Awadh in 1753, but died within a year at Papar ghat, near Sultanpur in 1754. His mausoleum in Delhi is one of the finest pieces of architecture of that period.
Shuja-ud-daula (1754-1775) -
SafdarJung was succeeded by his son Jalal-ud-din Haider -Shuja-ud-daula, who stayed mostly at Faizabad. He supported Mir kasim in the Battle of Baksar in 1764 but was defeated, which compelled him to enter into a treaty with the East India Company, in addition to payment of 50 lakh of rupees. This was the advent of British on the soils of Awadh. The 1st British resident Mr Middleton entered the court of Nawab Wazier in 1773. Safdar Jung was a restless, impulsive and ambitious ruler who not only brought violent disturbances but also momentous vicissitudes for his regime. From the time of Shuja-ud-daula onwards, the Nawabs surrendered their independence little by little, over the coming years. To pay for the protection of British forces and assistance in war, Awadh gave up first the fort of Chunar, then districts of Benaras, Ghazipur and finally AIlahabad.
Shuja-ud-daula died in 1774 and was laid to rest at his mausoleum at Gulab-Bari, Faizahad.
Asaf-ud-daula (1775-1797) -
The accession of Asaf-ud-daula, the fourth nawab wazir of Awadh, brought a great change in Awadh politics. Under the rule of Asaf-ud- daula the court of Lucknow became utterly magnificent and the town of Lucknow acquired great splendor. The capital was finally shifted from Faizabad to Lucknow in 1755 which contributed to its significant growth.
The most important outcome of Asaf-ud-daula consolidation of the court at Lucknow, was the emergence of a powerful shia culture, in constant interaction with the shia heart lands of Iran & Iraq. The increasing number of shia emigrants from Iranian cities variably transformed Lucknow into a great intellectual centre.
Asaf-ud-daula was also a great builder: He built the 'Daulat Khana' as a residence for himself to the west of Macchi Bhawan, the Rumi Darvaza and the incomparable Bara Imam Bara. The Imam-Bara & the Rumi-Gate were constructed as a famine relief measure in 1784. Consciously designed by its architect Kifayatullah, the 164 feet long and 52 feet wide building is constructed in brick with high quality limestone. The arched roof of the Imam-Bara, which is built without a single beam, is the largest of its kind in the world. The strength of the edifices can be judged from the fact that although built over 212 years they still stand intact, maintaining their original dignity and grandeur.
The Bhulbhulaiya at Bara Imambara, is a unique labyrinth of intricate balconies and passages, with 489 identical doorways, which give the feeling of being lost.
He also built the Bibiyapur Kothi. It was built by Asaf-ud-daula as a country residence where he frequently resorted for hunting, of which he was passionately fond. The beautiful Chunhat Khoti was also built by Asaf-ud-daula. General Claude Martin entered the court of Awadh under Asafud-daula, and created the plan of his 'Constantia', The Nawab was so overwhelmed by his design that he decided to purchase it with ten lakh gold coins. But before the transaction could be completed the Nawab departed for his heavenly abode in 1797, and was laid to rest in his magnificent lmambara.
Wazir Ali (1797-1798) -
Wazir-Ali the son of Asafud-daula assumed rulership after him, but within four months of his rule alienated the British and his subjects alike and was finally deposed and imprisoned in the Chunar fort, where he died.
Saadat-Ali-Khan (1798-1814) -
Yamin-ud-daula-Nawab Saadat Ali Khan was the son of Asaf-ud-daula. Saadat-Ali-Khan was crowned on 21stJan., 1798 at a grand darbar held at Bibiyapur Palace, by Sir John Shore. As a mark of gratitude he ceded half of Awadh Kingdom to the British in 1801.
Saadat Ali Khan, though economical in fiscal management, was nevertheless an enthusiastic builder and commissioned many grand palaces, including Dilkusha, Hayat Baksh Kothi and Farhat Buksh Kothi as well as the famous Lal -Baradari. The Farhat Buksh was purchased from Claude Martin for fifty thousand rupees. Farhat Buksh was a vast complex of buildings. It remained the chief royal residence until Wajid Ali Shah built Kaiserbagh. The area was the scene of bitter fighting during 1857 and the complex was almost destroyed. Chattar Manzil became a British club during the period of the Raj. Since 1947 it has been housing the Central Drug Research Institute. The Royal Court at Lal Baradari, the part of Farhat Baksh Complex known as 'Qasr-uI- Sultan', the King's Palace, served as throne room, coronation hall of assembly for Awadh rulers, from the time of Saadat Ali Khan. Ghazi-ud-din-Haider was crowned in this royal Palace in 1819. The Kothi 'Dil Aaram,' was constructed on the high river bank as a private house for the Nawab. In addition to these houses the Nawab constructed the celebrated buildings Munavar Baksh, Khurshid Manzil and the Chaupar Stables. The Awadh style was gradually abandoned during reign of Saadat Ali Khan and European innovations adopted largely. The result was that Lucknow became rendezvous for more distinguished people than ever before.
In 1814 Nawab Saadat Ali Khan departed from life and was buried at his tomb with his wife 'Khursheed Zadi' in the twin Tombs of Qaiserbagh adjoining the begum Hazrat Mahal park.
Ghazi-ud-din-Haider (1814-1819) -
Ghazi-ud-din Haider ascended the throne in 1814. He got built two houses within the Motimahal complex, the Mubarak Manzil and Shah Manzil. He also introduced for the first time animal fighting sport, which was hitherto unheard in Lucknow. Ghazi-ud- din used to watch these fights from Shahmanzil, which took place on the other side of the river at Hazari Bagh.
He got a European style house built for one of his European wife and named it 'Vilayati Bagh. ' The edifice of Qadam Rasul was constructed near it. According to popular belief this impression of the supposed footprints of Muhammad on black stone, was brought from mecca, by some distinguished pilgrim. Though badly damaged in 1857, the stone bearing the footprint still stands, on a high pedestal near Sikandar Bagh (NBRI).
Ghazi-ud-din Haider due to his religious fervor; reproduced on the banks of Gomti near Sikander bagh, a sacred Najaf, a holy mausoleum, the copy of Ali's burial place at Najaf in Iraq. He was buried here at his death in 1827. Later his three begums were also buried at Shah Najaf Imambara -Sarfaraz Mahal, Mubarak Mahal and Mumtaz Mahal. In his life time itself; Ghazi-ud-din Haider had constituted the unique 'Vasiqa system' an endowment arrangement with the British, for the upkeep of lmambaras. With the interest of the 'perpetual loans', the maintenance of the lmambaras was to be taken care of. In 1886 the vasiqa legislation was passed with which the arrangements were regularized and a board of trustees, which continues to this day, was instituted, to manage the funds. The vasiqas continue to the present time and the Bara Imambara, Chotta Imambara and the Shahnajaf Imambara are looked after by them.
Nasir-ud-din Haider (1827-1837)-
In 1827 Ghazi-ud-din Haider's son, Nasir-ud-din Haider; ascended the throne. King Nasir-ud-Din Haider had a colorful court and he led a lavish even extravagant life.
He had a strong belief in Astrology & Astronomy. This led him to set up an observatory at Lucknow 'The Tarunwali Kothi' which was bedecked with exceptionally good astronomical instruments. He added Darshan Vilas, an european style Kothi, to the Farhat Buksh complex in 1832. By the time of Nasir-ud-din Haider the Awadh govt. had started deteriorating. The administration of the kingdom was left to the hands of Wazir Hakim Mahdi and later to Raushan-ud-Daula. The King was busy in his debaucheries and inventing religious rites. He lived mostly in women quarters and even started dressing like woman.
He reproduced a Karbala at lradatnagar for his place of burial. However his tyrannical rule was brought to an end in 1837, when he was poisoned by his own friends & favourites. Nasir-ud-din Haider died without an offspring and Ghazi-ud- din Haider's queen 'Padshah Begum' put forward Munna Jan, as a claimant to the throne though both Ghazi-ud- din Haider and Nasir-ud-din Haider had refused to acknowledge him as belonging to the royal family. The begum forcibly enthroned Munna Jan at Lalbaradari. The British intervened and exploited the situation to their interest. They arrested both the begum and Munna Jan and arranged for the accession of late Nawab Saadat Ali Khan's son, Nasir-ud-daula, under title of 'Muhammad Ali Shah', who promised to pay a large sum of money to the British for this.
Muhammad Ali Shah (1837-1842) -
Muhammad Ali Shah was 63 years of age when he ascended the throne. But he was an experienced man and had seen the glorious days of his father. He started to economize and set right the administration. He started building the Chhota lmambara. Muhammad Ali Shah was determined to make Lucknow into veritable Babylon and to leave for himself a memorial, representing him as greatest king of Awadh. He started building in the neighborhood of the present clock tower, an edifice similar to Babylon's minaret or floating garden & named it Satkhanda, but it reached only its fifth storey in 1842, when Muhammad Ali Shah died.
Amjad Ali Shah (1842-1847) -
After Muhammad Ali Shah, his son Amjad Ali Shah ascended the throne. Muhammad Ali Shah had made every effort to ensure that the heir apparent received an excellent education & had therefore entrusted him to the company of religious scholars, which instead of making him an intelligent ruler made him a devout muslim. Thus, he became the most deeply religious, circumspect and abstinent ruler of Awadh. As a result, the system of administration set up by Muhammad Ali Shah became completely disorganized, while the vicious officers had their day.He died in 1848 due to cancer and was burried at the Imambara Sibtainabad in western part of Hazratganj, a quarter which he had himself established.
Wajid- Ali-Shah (1847-1856) -
Amjad Ali Shah's eldest son, Wajid Ali shah, who was eventually destined to be the last ruler of Awadh, ascended the throne of Awadh in 1847.
Wajid Ali Shah was a great patron of singers, musicians, dancers and artists. He was also greatly interested in architecture. He started building the Qaiser bagh palace complex as soon as he came to the throne. This vast complex was built between 1848 and 1850 at the cots of 80 lakh rupees including furniture and decoration. The inner court yard of Qaiserbagh, with its lawns was called Jilo Khana. In the centre was a Baradari flanked by two mermaid gates ( Lakkhigate ) at eastern and western ends. On the right end was Chandiwali Baradari, which was paved with sliver and the khas muqam and Badshah manzil, which used to be the special residence of the king. On the left was a large group of buildings termed as chaulakkhi kothi, built by Azimutla Khan, which was later sold to the king. Nawab khas mahal and other honoured ladies of the royal harem lived here. During the mutiny days Begum Hazrat Mahal held court from this kothi. The buildings at the Qaiserbagh Quadrangle were occupied chiefly by ladies of the Harem. To left of the Western Lakkhi gate, was the Roshan-ud-daula kothi, built by Nasir-ud-din-Haider's Wazir, later confiscated by Wajid Ali Shah and renamed as 'Qaiser Pasand'. One of his favourite wives Nawab Mashuq Mahal used to live in it. Of the large oblong enclosure of elegant and imposing two storied houses, one wing of which was pulled down after the war of 1857, the other still remains. It was in this atmosphere of gaiety and merriment, that the British annexed Awadh on Feb.11, 1856 deposing Wajid Ali Shah.
This portrait of Wajid Ali Shah was used to justify British annexation of Avadh. If the charges of mismanagement levied against Wajid Ali Shah were true, the British were as much responsible for this as the Nawab. They were more in control of the administration and finances of Avadh since the 1780's than the Nawab. In addition, Avadh had been impoverished by the incessant cash demands of the British on the Nawab. The excuse at last came for the British to invoke that clause of the 1801 Treaty. And the Governor General in 1856, Lord Dalhousie, was just the man to do it. Avadh was annexed, Wajid Ali Shah shipped off to virtual imprisonment in Matiyaburj in Calcutta and, though this was not on the British programme, the stage set for the greatest rebellion to date against their power in India. One of Wajid Ali Shah's wives, the Begum Hazrat Mahal, remained in Lucknow, and when the Mutiny came in 1857, she put herself at the head of those fighting for freedom.
The Begum never did surrender, she died in Nepal in 1879.
Awadh Cuisine - A Lucknavi Specialty
Whenever I heard of Lucknow or I talk about Lucknow, Awadh cuisine was always one of the topics which is discussed almost for whole transaction. Sometimes, this specialty of Lucknow overshadows all other Luknavi attractions.
Nawabs are credited to have discovered Dum Pukht(slow, prolonged cooking) style of cooking. So all the Dum varieties are popular over here be it Dum Biryani, Dum Mutton, Dum Murg or even Dum Aloo.Amongst rice varities, Lucknow is known for it's Pulav - especially Noor Pulav, Moti Pulav, and Chameli Pulav. Sweet Pulav like Mazafar, and Khat-Miththe Pulav are popular too.Roomali Roti, and Sheermal has distinct style. They are prepared and treated differently over here than the rest of the country.
When I visited Lucknow, Awadh cuisine was second in my itinerary. I went out to try out some recommended eateries. So here are my recommendations to you:
1. Tunday's Kababs - Located in Aminabad Chowk, this establishment is more than 150 years old. Legend has it that a rich Lucknowi nobleman once lost all his teeth, yet couldn’t give up his love for kababs. So he ordered his master chef to whip up a kabab that he could eat without missing his teeth, meaning, the kabab had to just melt in his mouth. So successful was the experiment that the recipe lived on. His master chef was physically challenged & so why it was called Tunday's Kababs. Pathetically, Tunda means lame in local language. These days grandsons of Tunday Kababi are running this establishment. This name is famous not only in India but all over the world. However, when you reach this two storey shop, you will not feel a single element of luxury. It is retaining same old building with very minor renovations. It does not have well maintained AC dining room, instead it has fan fitted, table-chair kind of eatery shop. Prices are so minimal that you think that is this really world famous!
2. Rahim ke Nihari Kulche - This is located in Maulviganj. There is always crowd begging for its part. Rahim's preparations were originally of beef however these days you can get mutton preparations also. Nihari is a spicy mutton stew with root vegetables and kulcha is bread that resembles mille-feuille.
3. Sharma ki Chaat - This person started chaat selling from a very small stall on road. He still sells on that stall only but he come in his on car to sell. This is how he defines fruit of hard & honest work.
4. Raja ki Thandai - Located in Chowk. Thandai is a refreshing cashew-milk concoction .
5. Bismillah ki Biryani - A well known name in Biryani world. Now they are going to open a shop in Dubai also. Started selling biryani on bicycle at Nakkhas on Sundays and at Shahmina Shah dargah on Thursdays some 50 years ago, now going to world as a trademark of Lucknavi flavor.
Please read an article on this in Deccan Herald: http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/jun52005/finearts105229200564.asp
6. Radhey ki Malai Gilori - Located in Aliganj, this shop serves original malai gilori. This item you can find in Chaudhary sweets, Hazaratganj as well however for authentic flavor, come to Radhey Sweets. This Malai Gilori is made of Malai which is used to wrap a mixture of many types of nuts. This sweet can only be stored for 24 hours as this has a short life. So why it is really hard to carry this item to other long distance cities from Lucknow. Doodhiya Barfi, Kali Gajar Ka Halwa, Rajbhog, Aam Ki Kheer, and Mewey Ka Dhoodh are some other famous items of this establishment.
7. Prakash ki Kulfi - you get only one kind of kulfi there but if you don’t eat that, you just ought not live anymore. So kulfi it was. Icy cold, a nice sunshine yellow color, with falooda on top, and better than most icecreams in most fancy places.
8. Tulsi Plaza Biryani - located near Residency, serves a good quality biryani.
9. Mushtaq Miyan - Located near Press Club. This is also a well known name in biryani world. There are many places in Lucknow where you get biryani, as you may have seen some places here in this blog also, however every place has its own flavor & taste. So why I suggest you to try out as many places as you can.
10. Kali Mirch ka Murga - There is a Maharaja Hotel near Charbagh railway station. This is a specialty dish of this hotel.
11. Kabra Ki Dukaan, now known as Madhurima - Located at Sri Ram Road, Aminabad, this is famous for sweets in Lucknow.
12. Ram Asre - Located in Hazarat Ganj, a famous sweet shop. Malai Pan and Tirangi Barfi are originally Lucknow's sweets. Ram Asre's never uses tap water in their sweets because the washer in them has the animal leather. Not only this, they always use raw sugar instead of prepared sugar from the market because bones are used in the cleansing of sugar. His sweets are believed to be perfect fit for offering to God.
13. Makhkhan Malai (Lab-e-Mashook) - eaten only in Lucknow during winters. It is prepared near Kali Ji's Mandir in Chowk and supplied to the whole city. No body other than the manufacturers knows the exact recipe of the preparation.
14. Raja Bazaar's Kapurkand
15. Tatpatti Ki Rabri - located in Yahiyaganj
16. Babulal's Khasta-Kachaudi - Located in Aishbagh
17. Netram's Jalebi and Imarti
